Choosing A Mirrorless Camera
Derek Smith • 18 February 2022
Going Underground
Photo By: Derek Smith - Olympus E-PL7
Puffin
Photo By: Derek Smith - Olympus OM-D E-M5 iii
Flamborough Head Stack
Photo By: Derek Smith - Fuji X-T3
Fuji - Twin Lens Kit
Photo by: Derek Smith
There are so many excellent mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras on the market at the moment, choosing the right camera for your needs can be quite daunting. These are my thoughts, and personal opinion on choosing a mirrorless camera.
The first choice would possibly be on sensor size; there are four to consider, medium format, full frame, APS-C (Nikon DX), and micro four thirds. Medium format sensors as used in Hasselblad, and Fuji GFX cameras are probably too “high end”, and specialised for the average photographer. Most photographers will opt for a full frame camera, or an APS-C camera. The advantage of a full frame sensor is improved dynamic range, and low light capability, the disadvantages of a full frame camera, are the larger size, weight of the lenses, and higher costs of buying those lenses. Personally for my needs an APS-C camera hits the “sweet spot” on weight, physical size and price of the camera, and lenses. Micro four thirds, is the smallest sensor used in the Olympus / Panasonic partnership cameras, I have used micro four thirds cameras since I bought my first Olympus E-PL1 in 2010, and never found the image quality lacking in any respect. Some of my best photography of late has been taken with the Olympus OM-D E-M5 iii which has been a sterling performer in all weathers, and never let me down, and the amazing Olympus E-PL7 using the 17mm f/1.8 pancake prime (34mm full frame).
Possibly the next choice would be brand loyalty, if you’ve used brand “X” for a number of years, then you might consider buying a mirrorless camera from that brand if upgrading. I believe however that rather than focus on a particular brand of camera, your choice might be better served by the camera features needed, and the choice of lenses, and the price of those lenses.
Sony produce some excellent cameras, the auto focus, and subject tracking on those cameras is first rate, however for me the APS-C A6000 range of cameras are ergonomically flawed, fine if shooting in semi automatic mode, set the ISO, and white balance to auto, the mode dial to Aperture Priority, and use the single control wheel to adjust the aperture. Choosing to shoot in Manual Mode is a different proposition entirely. Set the ISO from the menu, aperture from the control wheel on the top of the camera, and the shutter speed is adjusted by the tiny thumb wheel on the back of the camera, and it’s not possible to adjust the settings while holding the camera up to the eye!! I upgraded to the Sony A7 ii, a far better camera in my opinion, but the lens mount is too close to the handgrip, I had to squeeze my fingers in between the lens barrel on some lenses, and the handgrip, and personally I’ve never been able to see much difference between a full frame camera, and an APS-C image.
It was the ergonomics that prompted my return to the Olympus fold, even the base camera Olympus OM-D E-M10 iv has twin control dials on top of the camera, and can be bought new, as a kit, from under £800. Olympus, and Panasonic have over 100 lenses to choose from, with the micro four thirds mirrorless cameras having been in existence since Panasonic produced the G1 in 2008, followed by the Olympus E-PL1 in 2009.
My choice of camera system was based on my change of needs. My workflow had markedly changed, I now predominantly shoot in RAW, and edit the images, but I also liked to shoot in JPEG to share on social media, and a single SD card meant that I had to separate out the RAW images, and the JPEG images when loading onto the computer, which slowed my workflow down. I therefore needed to have two SD card slots, I also wanted to have a joystick to control the focus point, and the camera must be weatherproof. My immediate upgrade path would have been to the Olympus OM-D E-M1 iii, but I felt like a change.
Canon make some excellent cameras, I looked at the M mount APS-C cameras, but currently a poor range of lenses, no weatherproofing, and no dual card slots, the Canon RP is a great camera but no dual card slots.
Nikon next, I like the Z50, but again with only two lenses for the APS-C (Nikon DX), I seriously considered the Nikon Z5, dual SD card slots, weatherproofing, and IBIS, however it was the lens choice, and cost of lenses, that determined my rejection of this choice.
Sony wasn’t even a consideration, due to the ergonomics, but the lens choice, and image quality are outstanding, apart from the dust spots on the sensor which is a common problem on Sony cameras.
Panasonic S5, I nearly bought this, my finger hovered over the “buy now” button, especially over the Christmas period when the camera body, and 20-60mm lens were on offer at £1300!!
Eventually it was the Fuji APS-C range of cameras that I was drawn to, with a choice of over 40 native lenses, the weatherproofing, dual UHS ii SD card slots, a joystick and the analogue dials on top of the camera of the X-T3 that won me over. I needed a high quality prime lens for my portraiture, and this has been filled by the excellent 35mm f/2 lens (50mm full frame equivalent). The 16-80mm f/4 constant aperture lens (24-120mm full frame) is ideal for travel, and landscape, and I have the excellent 70-300mm variable aperture lens (105-450mm full frame) for the wildlife. As a wide angle lens I have the Samyang 12mm AF f/2 prime lens (18mm full frame). The camera is reasonably small, and light, (heavier though than the Olympus), and makes a complete set with the camera body, the 16-80mm lens, and the 70-300mm lens all fitted into a small Manfrotto camera bag.
As to costs, the X-T3 body was £899 new, the 35mm lens, and the 16-80mm lens were bought second hand, and I had to buy the 70-300mm lens new at £729, as it was only introduced late last year, so the price, size, and weight of the lenses suit my needs.
The learning curve moving to the Fuji system has been fairly steep, some of the settings are inter dependent, as an example if I want to use the face / eye auto focus, then that overrides the choice of focus point, but once you know these things then it becomes easy, I’ll have the face / eye auto focus on for portrait sessions, and switch it off when shooting in other genres, and I have a function button assigned for this.
Louth Photographic Society
Good Morning All, I visited Welton-Le-Wold nature reserve the other evening, a bit like a small Red Hill, there were a lot more wildflowers there than Red Hill but again not many insects, it may be better in the daytime? It is only about two miles from Louth as well. Last week was the LPA battle at Scunthorpe, only Dave Turner went taking our prints with him, not a good result for Louth, 1st Grimsby 258, 2nd Scunthorpe 245 and 3rd Louth 236, quite a difference from the first round but that's LPA battles. The next round is at Cleethorpes, it would be good if a few more members could attend. It will soon be our annual dinner at the Splash, any more deposits this week please and menu choices by midnight Wednesday please, otherwise you may go hungry. This week, Wednesday 18th June, we hold our monthly print competition, with the categories of “Britain's Coastline” and “Open” there has been a good entry so should be a good night. Regards Graham
Good Morning All Last week we visited Red Hill nature reserve, a very good turnout, but the wildlife didn't seem to know we were going, it's quite worrying though the lack of any butterflies or any other insects of any sorts. Hopefully we all got some photographs before we visited the Three horseshoes at Goulceby. I did photograph an unusual caterpillar but couldn't manage to identify it? This week we are away in the LPA Battles at Scunthorpe, for anyone planning to attend it is at the Pavilion, Bramley Crescent, Bottesford DN16 35N this Wednesday 11th at 7.30pm. I don't think I will make it due to work but hopefully some members will attend. There will be no meeting at Louth this week as members will be a way at Scunthorpe. The following week, Wednesday 18th June, we are holding the monthly print competition, if you can email your titles to Dave Turner by midnight Wednesday 11th if you have not already and bring your prints in on the night by 7 pm as no one is there to collect them this week. There are still a few deposits for the meal to come in yet, but in two week's time will be ok. If you can send your menu choices to me if you are attending by midnight 0n the 18th June please, as they need typing out and sending to the Splash two weeks in advance. Well, I think that's all, Regards Graham
When you use a digital camera for the first time it’s tempting to shoot in fully “Auto” mode, however if you continue using this mode you will be missing out on the full functionality, and capability of your camera. What I would suggest is to use one of the other modes, most photographers use the semi-automatic “Aperture Priority”, denoted by the A or Av on the mode dial, this is not as daunting as it may at first sound. There are 3 variables to obtain a properly exposed photograph, aperture, the lens opening letting the light onto the camera sensor, shutter speed, a slow 1/60 sec shutter speed allows a greater amount of light to reach the sensor than 1/250 second, and ISO, which adjusts the sensitivity of the sensor to light. Using “Aperture Priority” mode (A or Av) allows the photographer to take control over the camera settings for improved photos, and greater creative control. Switch to "Aperture Priority" mode and use the dial, or touchscreen to vary the lens opening size, displayed as an "F" number in the viewfinder or rear screen. A lower F number allows a greater amount of light to reach the sensor, reducing depth of field. A higher F number increases depth of field. To put this into perspective, I like to think of the aperture values in terms of bands: – f/1.2 – f/4 for portraits, or subject isolation, with a narrow “depth of field” f/4 – f/7.1 for wildlife, and architecture photos f/7.1 – f/16 produces great landscape images with a large “depth of field” ensuring the photo is sharp from the foreground to the distant background. These aperture values are not meant to be arbitrary, but rather to provide some guidance, the “depth of field” will vary depending on the focal length of the lens, the size of the sensor, and the distance of the photographer to the subject. The ISO value can be set to Auto ISO, or fixed at a set value, if the shutter speed drops below 1/60, the image may become “soft” the ISO can be increased to raise the shutter speed, thus ensuring a sharper image. The two images of Filey crazy golf course demonstrate the advantage of choosing an “Aperture Priority” over “Auto” mode. With the camera in “Auto” mode an aperture of f/4.5 was chosen by the camera, and the foreground rock becomes soft. Selecting “Aperture Priority”, and choosing f/8, the image is now sharp from the foreground to the background.
At Red Hill nature reserve last night members had the opportunity to practice their macro skills. The evening was bright, but with a chilly wind, both of which made macro photography fairly challenging. Macro photography needs patience and a wealth of subjects, we didn’t see any butterflies, only a couple of grasshoppers, and a ladybird. In the wildflower meadow the orchids hadn’t grown fully yet, there was plenty of Birds Foot Trefoil around, I managed to get a reasonable shot of a grasshopper, and a grass seed head, which are posted on here. It was good to see so many members attending; it was a chance to get down to ground level and see the beauty of macro / close up photography.
Good Morning All Bank Holiday Monday I went to Chambers wood in search of the Marsh Fritillary, a butterfly I had never seen before, it must have been a good year for them as there were quite a lot of them about in the meadows. Last week at the club we concentrated on macro and close up photography, showing a DVD the first half which should have given us all the technical knowledge we will need for this weeks outing to Red Hill. The second half Derek demonstrated with the help of his carved owl some of the things that had been shown in the DVD. You can go to Red Hill earlier if you like but if we say meet for 6.30pm at the reserve and I have checked the website for The Three Horseshoes at Goulceby and it says it is open until 10pm, so that's refreshments sorted. Red Hill is just over 8 miles from Louth, on the Wolds near Stenigot, the nearest postcode is LN11 9UE and a map is on the Lincolnshire wildlife trust's website. I will have my phone in case you get lost, but I can't guarantee a signal out there ( 07884316994 ). To find Red Hill if you head for Goulceby from Louth by going past the top end of Hubbards Hills you should find it ok. The following week we are away at Scunthorpe for round two of the LPA battles, more info next week for members who are planning to attend. Regards Graham
At our meeting last night an instructional DVD on “Macro Photography” was shown. The DVD material was quite detailed, very interesting, with lots of facts, and figures to consider. After the break, I attempted to unpack some of that detail with a practical demonstration using my own camera, (the OM Systems OM-1) a set of extension tubes, an LED light, and an on-camera flash. There’s lots to consider when beginning with macro photography, first of which I would say is get to know your camera, being able to adjust aperture, ISO, and watching the shutter speed if shooting in Aperture Priority mode to optimise exposure, and detail. Next, lens choice, select a lens with the closest focusing distance, if you have a dedicated macro lens then use that, otherwise a set of extension tubes may bring your camera closer to your subject. Choosing a subject, and lighting the subject with a LED light, or a camera flash speedlight will yield improved results. Don’t be afraid to experiment with settings, only by continual practice will the best images in this incredible genre, that is macro photography be realised, above all have fun. We meet at Red Hill Nature Reserve, Goulceby next week, Wednesday 4th June, to hopefully capture some amazing macro photography.
Good Morning all What a good night we had last Wednesday in the LPA Battle against Lincoln. We managed three twenties and overall won by twenty points, the second best score in the first round overall only bettered by Scunthorpe who we meet next. This week, Wednesday 28th May we are showing a DVD, "The Essential Guide to Close-up and Macro Photography". I was asked if I could get a speaker on the subject but there didn't seem to be any so a DVD should be a good substitute. We have a print competition coming up, with the categories of "Britain's Coastline" and "Open", it covers a very large area including all the islands. Due to outings and the LPA Battles it will not be easy getting our prints to Dave, so you can bring them this Wednesday or send an email with your entries to Dave as usual and bring them on the night if you don't see Dave beforehand. If you do this, you must send the titles to Dave to get on the scoresheet. I have confirmed our booking at the Splash on 4th July as I had twenty members and partners replying indicating they would be attending. I have paid the deposit so if you could give me £5 per person deposit when you next see me. They have also asked us to have menu choices decided two weeks before we go. Regards Graham
On Wednesday 28th May, the Society will be showing a DVD that hopefully will give advice on techniques, and skills for “Macro Photography”. The following Wednesday we will meet up at Red Hill to practice those skills, and techniques. So, what is “Macro Photography”? Wikipedia gives the following definition: "Macro photography is extreme close-up photography, usually of very small subjects and living organisms like insects, in which the size of the subject in the photograph is greater than life-size." To photograph small insects, or flowers larger than life-size a photographer will need to have a lens suitable for the purpose, a dedicated macro lens, a close focusing telephoto zoom lens, or the least expensive option is a set of extension tubes. With my Fuji camera system I used a 70-300mm zoom lens to capture these images, now that I am using the Olympus / OM System cameras I can buy a dedicated macro lens for about £400, however rather than spending a lot of money, I have opted to purchase a set of extension tubes, for £33, the tubes fit between the camera body and the lens enabling closer focusing to the subject. One of my techniques for close focusing is to obtain focus, either with auto focus, or manual focus, and gently rock back, and forward to fine tune the focus. A camera flash, or a portable LED light can also be used to highlight the subject.
Good Morning All Last week at the club we held our monthly PDI competition, with the categories of "Seasons" and "Open" judged by a new judge to the LPA, Dane Butler. There is a report on the evening on our blog and all the results are on our website under competitions. Well done to Steve Chapman who came first in both subjects. This week, Wednesday 21st May, we host Lincoln in the first round of the print LPA Battles judged by Brian Grommett. Don't forget, subs are now due, also keep going on your project, prime time if you are taking part. Regards Graham
The first round of the LPA Print Battles was held last night, Louth hosted Lincoln for this round. The judge for the evening was the excellent, quietly spoken, knowledgeable Brian Gromett. Brian reviewed the prints in his usual calm manner, holding back four prints from the Lincoln entries, and nine prints from Louth. The club room was packed for the evening, I was especially taken with three of the detailed insect prints submitted by Lincoln, and presumably by the same author, as the pastel like green backgrounds were in the same style. It was an excellent and close fought competition, well done to Lincoln, but after the points were added up Louth led by 20 points.
